We stop in Pembroke just long enough to do laundry and enjoy the wonderful Grey Gables Inn before we head off to Killarney, Ontario.
Pembroke was a huge lumber town at one point, now sadly diminished. We’re not sure how exactly we found the Grey Gables, but it’s a huge lumber baron’s house that has been lovingly restored by Lisa and Rigo, our hosts. We feel more like we’re staying at a friend’s house than a hotel. There’s no one else around when we check in, so Rigo answers our questions about the town and building, shows us around.
Later we’re invited to have a drink on the screened porch. It’s just us, some comfy furniture and a gorgeous old restored carriage, like nothing I’ve ever seen outside of a museum. Rigo says he bought it from a local collector and he has another, larger one that he doesn’t yet have a spot to display.
We gather our laundry and head out to Soapy Joe’s and instantly decide that our first Canadian Laundromat beats the two American ones we’ve hit on this trip. Part of the joy of being on the road is Laundromats. We cleaned up twice at the Wolfeboro, New Hampshire, Laundromat and availed ourselves of the small laundry room at the Seawall Motel in Maine. Both were what you’d expect – linoleum floors, a couple of plastic chairs crammed in a corner, folding tables, change machine, etc. Soapy Joe’s has faux leather armchairs in a windowed seating area, wi-fi and a coffee bar. An hour and a half later, we’re ready done.
The drive to Killarney is fairly long, especially since we’re in the height of the road construction season. This far north, they don’t get much time to repair the roads so it’s not unusual to hit more than one crew on one stretch of highway.
We check in at the parks office for our official permit to hike La Cloche Silhouette Trail then head to Killarney Mountain Lodge just down the road for dinner and a good night’s rest before we hit the trail.